If you grew up eating Taiwanese home cooking, the smell of bitter melon simmering with pork ribs probably takes you straight back to your grandmother’s kitchen on a sweltering summer afternoon. This soup — humble, slightly bitter, deeply savory —…

There’s a bowl of braised pork rice sitting somewhere in Taiwan right now — sticky, glossy, impossibly fragrant — and once you’ve tasted it, no amount of konbini onigiri will ever quite fill that particular hole. Lu Rou Fan (滷肉飯)…